Congratulations! You’ve finished all of your Christmas squares and it’s time to seam them together and add a blanket border. Read through for all the details.
In case you missed…
If you just can’t wait, or would like the line-by-line written instructions, the PDF is available for purchase in my Etsy shop. Pattern purchase includes 3 PDFs:
1. Christmas Squares Throw Blanket_Graph version – 11 pages of color coded graphs for each square
2. Christmas Squares Throw Blanket_Written version – 15 pages of line-by-line written instructions
3. Crochet Colorwork Tips – helpful tips about tapestry and intarsia crochet with lots of working pictures
Materials Needed
Any medium worsted (#4) weight yarn. I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love this Yarn in:
- White (5 skeins, or 1500 yds)
- Red (2 skeins, or 665 yds)
- Graymist (1 skein, or 100 yds)
- Black (1 skein, or 70 yds)
- White (5 skeins, or 1500 yds)
- Red (2 skeins, or 665 yds)
- Graymist (1 skein, or 100 yds)
- Black (1 skein, or 70 yds)
- US size H-8 (5 mm) hook
- Tapestry needle
- Steam iron or garment steamer (optional)
- Kids foam puzzle mat (optional)
Gauge
- 6 SC and 7 rows = 2 inches
- Each tile is approximately an 8 inches wide and 7.5 inches long
- Finished size is approximately 43 inches wide and 57 inches long
Abbreviations
Ch(s) = chain(s)
Ch-2 sp = chain-2 space
SC = single crochet
Sl St = slip stitch
St(s) = stitch(es)
Notes
- This pattern is written in US standard terms
- The pattern and photographs in this document are property of Smiley Goose, and are for personal use only. Please do not alter, share, or sell this pattern as your own. You are, however, more than welcome to make and sell finished products using this pattern. I ask that you please credit Smiley Goose and provide a link back to the pattern listing if you are selling online.
- [ ] = stitches in brackets should all be worked in the specified stitch/space
- If you are a tight crocheter like me, I recommend going up ½ a hook size to complete the foundation chain and Row 1. Switch to hook size needed to obtain gauge for the rest of the tile.
- You can easily alter the size of your blanket by making more or less tiles.
Square Border
**Make sure each square has the following border before you move on to the Assembly section**
Round 1: With white, ch 1 and turn. SC in each st to end of the row. Ch 2 and continue along the left edge of tile working 1 SC per row. When you reach the end of the side, Ch 2 and SC in each st across the bottom of the tile. At the next corner, Ch 2 and SC evenly up the right edge of the tile working 1 SC per row. After working a SC in the last row of the right side, Ch 2. Sl st to the first SC of the top row and switch to red at the same time (drop white yarn and pull red loop through sl st). Tie off white yarn.
Round 2: With red, Ch 1 and SC in same as join st. SC around entire tile working [SC, Ch 2, SC] in each corner ch-2 space (work around chains and not in any loops). Sl st to first SC.
Tie off and weave in all ends.
Blocking
If your tiles are curling, steam blocking is a quick and easy way to get them to lay flat. I laid each tile on a foam mat. With the iron set to steam on the hottest setting, hover it over each tile about ½ an inch. I did this about 30 seconds – 1 minute over the entire tile. After removing the iron, I smoothed out/shaped each tile with my hands rather than pinning in place. Repeat as necessary. Let your tiles cool completely before moving them. Be careful not to actually touch your project with the iron, or the yarn will melt.
Assembly
You can join the tiles in any order with your preferred method (slip stitch, mattress stitch, SC, etc.). I slip stitched mine together – here is a great video tutorial from Blossom Crochet if you have never tried it: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=MEy_GPcWnI8
Some tips if you use the same method:
- Easiest to work on a flat surface
- Keep working yarn under the tiles/blanket
- Ch 1 at the end of each tile before seaming the next (only chain 1 between tiles)
- Slip stitch over seams when working cross rows
Once all your squares are sewn together, move on to the Blanket Border section below. At this point, I only weaved in the ends that were in the middle of my blanket and left all the ends on the edges (we will use these tails later to fill in any gaps from the border).
Blanket Border
Round 1: With red, join with a sl st anywhere on your blanket’s edge. Ch 1 and SC in same as join st. Continue to SC in each st around. When you reach each corner ch-2 space, work [SC, Ch 2, SC] into sp. Join with a sl st to first SC.
Note: If there is a noticable dip between tiles, you can work a taller stitch (HDC or DC) in the seam space to help straighten out the edges of your blanket. I worked a DC in each ch-sp on both sides of each seam. I did not work a stitch in the actual seam. See pictures below.
When you finish the border, use the seam tails to fill in/reinforce the gaps left from the seam and taller stitches worked.
Round 2: Ch 1 and SC in same as join. SC in each st around. When you reach the corners, work [SC, Ch 2, SC] into each ch-2 sp. Join with a sl st to the first SC.
Round 3: Repeat Round 2.
Finish off and weave in all ends. I lightly steam blocked the entire blanket.
