The Nova triangle scarf is a new (free!) crochet pattern that is made using the corner to corner (C2C) crochet technique. Read through to find out all the details, or scroll to the bottom for the pattern!
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Concept and Design
This time I decided to combine my love of triangle scarves and C2C crochet. This is a super simple yet elegant design with a fun picot border. I like to use thinner weight yarns for my scarves but that is just personal preference; gauge is not critical so any weight yarn will work. The Nova scarf is made using the C2C crochet and increasing until you reach your desired dimensions. The contrasting border is worked along the 2 slanted sides and I added some picots since they are easy and oh so pretty 😍 Feel free to add your favorite border and tassels!
If you have never tried C2C crochet, this is a great beginner project because you only work with 1 color and increase every row. PDF purchase also comes with a How to Crochet Corner to Corner PDF with more tips and more explanation if you need it.
Yarn
WeCrochet has so many great yarns, I am slowly working my way through many of them. When I designed this scarf, I knew I wanted to use a sport or DK (#2-3) weight yarn. I came across this Paragon sport yarn on their website and thought it was so pretty! Paragon sport is a blend of wool, baby alpaca, and mulberry silk which makes it incredibly soft, squishy, and glossy. It is really nice to work with and will definitely be using is again in my near future 😊
I used 6 skeins (if you want to make yours larger, I would get more like 8 skeins) in Fortune and 1 in Aurora – so many other fabulous color combinations though. I had plenty of Aurora left after the border to add tassels if you like that look. Ideally, you can substitute with any sock thru worsted (#1-4) weight yarn of your choosing. Just know that your hook size and yardage will vary from mine.
Thank you to WeCrochet for providing the yarn for this project!
Links
Click here to get the ad free, inexpensive PDF on Etsy.
Click here to save the pattern to your Ravelry queue.
Or, pin this post for later by clicking on the image below.
Materials Needed
- Ideally, any sock, sport, DK, or worsted weight (#1-4) yarn should work for this project. I used WeCrochet’s Paragon Sport (#2) yarn in Fortune (6 skeins, approximately 735 yds) and Aurora (1 skein, approximately 65 yds).
- US size G-6 (4 mm) crochet hook, or size recommended for yarn used
- Tapestry needle
- Stitch marker
Gauge
- 6.5 blocks x 6.5 blocks = 4 inch square
- Finished size is approximately 24 inches wide and spans 53 inches long
Abbreviations
CC = contrast color
Ch = chain
Ch-2, 3 sp = chain 2 or 3 space
DC = double crochet
MC = main color
Picot = chain 3, then slip stitch into 1st chain made
SC = single crochet
Sl St = slip stitch
St(s) = stitch(es)
Notes
- This pattern is written in US standard terms
- The pattern and photographs in this document are property of Smiley Goose, and are for personal use only. Please do not alter, share, or sell this pattern as your own. You are, however, more than welcome to make and sell finished products using this pattern. I ask that you please credit Smiley Goose and provide a link back to the pattern listing if you are selling online.
- Turn your work at the end of every row.
- Please refer to the How to Corner to Corner Crochet PDF if you have any questions.
- [ ] = work all stitches in bracket in the same stitch or space.
- Increase at the start of every row until you reach your desired dimensions.
The Pattern
With MC, use the chart below. You will increase every row for 55 rows, or desired dimensions. Do not tie off. Continue to Finishing section.
Finishing
To smooth the jagged side, turn but do not ch. Sl St in first 3 stitches and into the ch-3 sp. *In the next block, HDC, SC, then Sl St. Sl St into the ch-3 sp. Repeat from * across, ending with a Sl St into the last ch-3 sp. Do not tie off. Continue to Border section.
Border (optional) – only worked on slanted sides
Row 1: Tie off MC and switch to CC. Ch 1 but do not turn. SC in ch-3 sp then ch 2. *SC in the space in between blocks, ch 2. Repeat from * down left slanted side. When you reach the middle point/end of row, work [SC, ch 2, SC] all in the last/corner st. Ch 2 and continue working along 2nd slanted side to end of row.
Row 2: Ch 1 and turn. SC in each st, then work 2 SC around each ch-2 from previous row. Be sure to work around the chain and not in any loops. When you reach the corner ch-2 sp, work [SC, ch 2, SC] all in the ch-2 sp. Continue SC along 2nd slanted side.
Row 3: Ch 3 and turn. Sl st to 1st ch (Picot made). SC in 1st st and in each of the next 3 sts. Picot. *SC in each of the next 4 sts, Picot. Repeat from * along 1st slanted side until 3 sts remain. SC in each of the next 3 sts. Work [SC, Picot, SC] all in ch-2 sp. SC in each of the next 3 sts, Picot. *SC in each of the next 4 sts, Picot. Repeat from * along 2nd slanted side. Sl st into last st sp.
*Note: if you made your project a different size than mine, count your stitches from Border Row 2, then add 1 more. See if this number is equally divisible by 2, 3, 4 to determine how many SC you will work between Picots.
Finish off and weave in all ends. Block as needed.
