The Emmaline wrap is a new (free!) crochet pattern that works up super fast with bulky yarn and is the perfect Spring/Summer accessory. Read through to find out all the details, or scroll to the bottom for the pattern!
DISCLOSURE: THIS PAGE MAY CONTAIN AFFILIATE LINKS WHICH HELP COVER THE COST OF PUBLISHING MY BLOG. SHOULD YOU CHOOSE TO MAKE A PURCHASE FROM ONE OF THESE LINKS – AT NO ADDITIONAL COST TO YOU – I WILL BE GIVEN A SMALL PERCENTAGE OF THE SALE. THANK YOU FOR YOUR SUPPORT!
Concept and Design
With the Emmaline wrap, I knew I wanted to make an open and airy design that would be nice for Spring and Summer. I decided on a larger mesh / lace sections with some single crochet in between to break up the mesh sections. This is a great beginner project because it uses simple stitches and works up very quickly with bulky weight yarn. I’m already thinking that this stitch pattern would look great at a bathing suit cover up! The Emmaline wrap is made using a 6 row repeat and can be made to your desired length. Fringe is fun but, of course, optional. 😊
Yarn
WeCrochet has so many great yarns, I am slowly working my way through many of them. When I designed this wrap, I already had this yarn in mind. I had seen a few other makers use it on Instagram and I also received some bare Billow to hand dye. My first thought when I picked it up was how buttery soft and squishy it was. The only thing left to do was pick a color but that turned out to be quite difficult! If I made another Emmaline wrap (or two!), I would use Tea Rose or Swell. The whole line is gorgeous and you really can’t go wrong with any color.
Billow is a bulky (#5) weight yarn and is 100% cotton. It was really nice to work with and the wrap is lightweight yet still warm. I used every last inch of 6 hanks and my wrap turned out pretty large, if you are aiming for a smaller wrap and not planning on fringe, you could get away with 4-5 hanks. Ideally, you can substitute with any sock thru worsted (#1-4) weight yarn of your choosing. Just know that your hook size and yardage will vary from mine.
Thank you to WeCrochet for providing the yarn for this project!
Links
Click here to get the ad free, inexpensive PDF on Etsy. PDF includes working pictures, fringe and blocking information.
Click here to save the pattern to your Ravelry queue.
Or, pin this post for later by clicking on the image below.
Materials Needed
- Any bulky (#5) weight yarn. I used WeCrochet’s Billow yarn in Ice Lily (6 hanks), approximately 720 yards.
- US size K/10.5 (6.5 mm) hook, or size needed to obtain gauge
- Tapestry needle
Gauge
- 6 SC and 5.5 rows = 2 inches
- Finished size is approximately 17.5 inches wide and 78 inches long (not including fringe)
Abbreviations
Ch(s) = chain(s)
Ch-1 sp = chain 1 space
DC = double crochet
SC = single crochet
St(s) = stitch(es)
Notes
- This pattern is written in US standard terms
- The pattern and photographs in this document are property of Smiley Goose, and are for personal use only. Please do not alter, share, or sell this pattern as your own. You are, however, more than welcome to make and sell finished products using this pattern. I ask that you please credit Smiley Goose and provide a link back to the pattern listing if you are selling online.
- You can easily alter the size of your wrap by adjusting the number of starting chains, just chain an even number.
- Chain 1 at beginning of row does not count as a stitch.
- Chain 4 at beginning of row counts as 1 double crochet and 1 chain 1 space.
- Each chain 1 space in the mesh section counts as 1 stitch in the final row count.
- When working in the turning chain on double crochet rows, work last stitch in either the 2nd or 3rd chain from the bottom. I found that working in the 2nd chain gave a straighter edge.
Emmaline Wrap Pattern
Ch 58
Row 1: SC in 2n ch from the hook and in each ch across to end. (st count = 57 SC)
Row 2: Ch 1 and turn. SC in each st across to end of row. (st count = 57 SC)
Row 3: Ch 4 and turn. Skip the 1st and 2nd sts. DC in the 3rd st. *Ch 1, skip 1, DC in next st. Repeat from * to end of row. (st count = 29 DC, 28 ch-1 sps)
*Note: Ch 4 at beginning counts as 1 DC and 1 ch-1 sp. This is the same for every DC row in the mesh section.
Row 4: Ch 4 and turn. Skip 1st st and ch-1 sp. DC in next st. *Ch 1, skip 1 ch sp, DC in next st. Repeat from * to end of row working the last DC in the top of the turning ch from the previous row. (st count = 29 DC, 28 ch-1 sps)
*Note: After the first set up row in the mesh section, you will always skip ch-1 sps and work DCs in the previous row’s DCs.
Rows 5 thru 7: repeat Row 4
Row 8: Ch 1 and turn. SC in each st and ch-1 sp across to end of row. The last SC is worked in the top of the turning chain from the previous row. (st count = 57 SC)
Row 9: Ch 1 and turn. SC in each st across to end of row. (st count = 57 SC)
Rows 10 thru 128: Repeat Rows 3 – 9, respectively, or until desired length.
Finish off and weave in all ends. Block as needed.
Fringe
On each end, I attached 29 sets of fringe to every other stitch. Begin in first st and end in last st.
Each set is made of 3 12-inch strands.
I used a larger hook to pull my yarn through each stitch. Pull strands through the loop to secure in place – pull snug.
Trim ends to desired length.
*Note: If you use the same yarn and to the same length as I did, you will be 2 strands short on the fringe. I made 2 sets of fringe with just 2 strands instead of 3 but you can’t tell 😊